Custom Wheelbuilding
I build wheels for all types of cyclists. I can build wheels with just about any quality rim and hub combination you would like. If you're unsure what wheel would be best for you, please call me to discuss your options. Every wheel built is covered by my guarantee.
I guarantee my wheelbuilds against spoke breakage for the life of the wheel--which means when the rim or the hub fail from usage or the rim wall is worn thin by the brake pads. All wheel truing and spoke replacement (should you need it) on any wheels I've built. This isn't much benefit for out of town customers (parts and labor are covered but not shipping), it gives you a good idea of what I expect from my wheels in terms of durability.
Wheelbuilding labor and spoke prices are below. I have separate pages for rims and hubs. (coming soon)
Wheelbuilding Labor Prices
Standard wheelbuild labor (up to 36 spoke)--$30
40 and 48 spoke wheels--$35
Removing hub from used wheel--$5
Spoke Prices
Double butted spokes are thinner in the mid-section of the spoke than at the ends, which moves spoke flex away from these vulnerable areas. I will build with straight gauge spokes, but will not guarantee straight gauge spokes against breakage. In almost all cases double butted spokes are the best choice. My guarantee against spoke breakage only applies to wheels built with double butted spokes.
I've tried many spoke brands and have been most satisfied with those made by Wheelsmith. Here are my prices and spoke weights for the curious. Weights are given for 32 262mm spokes. All prices include brass nipples. Black spoke prices include black nipples.
Silver DB14 (2.0-1.7-2.0) 172g $1.00 each
Black (2.0-1.7-2.0) 172g $1.30 each
Silver XL14 (2.0-1.5-2.0) 137g $1.25 each
Silver SS14 (2.0) 213g $0.60 each $0.75 each
Black SS14 (2.0) 213g $0.70 each
Handbuilt Means Nothing if it Isn't Handbuilt Well
"Handbuilt" is a term thrown around in the bike world as if it magically confers quality on a wheelbuild. But handbuilt doesn't mean anything if the wheel isn't built properly.
The term "handbuilt" is loosely used in the bike industry to mean a wheel that has the final tensioning, truing, and stress relieving done by hand. Often, handbuilt wheels from distribution houses are laced and initially tensioned by machine, and finished off by hand. The initial automazation doesn't affect the quality of the final wheel as long as the rest of the wheelbuild is done properly. But often in such environments the pressure to build wheels quickly means the wheels are built less than perfectly. Almost all wheels built at local bike shops and distributors are improperly and unevenly tensioned, even though they're built by hand. This is of special concern to riders who tend to break spokes, because undertensioned spokes are the primary cause of spoke breakage.
One of the reasons I started my own business is to ensure that every job is done to my standards. Any wheel that I build will be evenly and properly tensioned. I thorougly stress relieve all the wheels I build so they should need minimal truing if they ever need to be trued at all.
I am in the process of listing all the hubs and rims that I regularly use for wheelbuilds. If you have a hub or rim you'd like to use that you don't see listed on my site, please contact me. As long as I'm convinced the part will work well, I can special order anything that I don't stock. Since my wheelbuilding backlog generally hovers around a week, special ordering a hub or rim will rarely delay delivery of your wheels. I'll simply order the part and it will arrive by the time your wheelbuild makes it to the front of the line.
Used hubs, spokes, and rims
I will build wheels with used hubs. I do not build wheels with used rims or spokes. This isn't to say that good wheels can't be built with used rims or spokes. They can. But many times they can't. I don't want you to ever have a problem with any wheel I've built you, and the best way for me to ensure this is to always use new rims and spokes.


























