650B Frameset News: Part 1 of 2
Matthew at Kogswell and I have agreed that I will take over the Kogswell 650B P/R production and design. Kogswell has decided to concentrate on 26″ framesets and when Matthew told me he didn’t plan to continue production of the 650B P/R it seemed like a natural fit. As was the process with the P/R, I’ll be soliciting feedback from owners and prospective buyers about fine tuning the G2 P/R’s before producing the Longleaf 650B frames. The broad strokes of the design will remain the same, a steel TIG welded 650B bicycle with low-trail geometry designed for 35-42mm tires. For now I’ll keep discussion of the frameset on the blog, but I think in the future a google or yahoo group will be a better medium for discussing this and future framesets. For starters, I’d like to solicit feedback about the following:
- Tubing–The current tubing gauge produces a lively bike, but makes shimmy more probable. What do we think about the pros and cons of zippy but-might-shimmy tubing vs. slower-won’t-shimmy tubing?
- Sloping top tubes–Some people hate them, others don’t mind. The problem with eliminating the slope is that it will mean a ton of stem/steerer tube for many builds.
- Threaded vs. threadless steerer tubes–I prefer threaded, but lean toward threadless for practical reasons. Perhaps a switch to 1″ threadless? This would give people who want to use quill stems the option of cutting and threading the steerer tube without using headtube reducers. I know there are 1 1/8 quill stems and threaded headsets, but there aren’t any good options in those categories.
- Fenders–I’m pretty happy with the VO 650B fenders, but I also have a soft spot for fenders painted to match the frameset, so I lean toward producing fenders with the framesets.
- Name? Just wouldn’t seem right to keep calling it the P/R. I have an aversion to branding, but realize it is important. Any name suggestions for this model?
- And in case anyone is wondering, I will make the frame modifications on this P/R standard to allow for further integration of the lighting system–ports for internal tailight wiring, brazed on loops for headlight wiring.
As for the inevitable “When?” questions I’m shooting for prototypes in early spring and hope to have the the first production run by the end of the summer.
Anthony – congrats. I couldn’t think of a better steward of the P/R. So, I assume it will not be called a Kogswell (Longleaf is great!) – but the P/R name is iconic and not much of a brand as a description. I say that if Matthew is OK with you taking this designation along with the concept, then leave it be. It would speak to the continuity of the model. You can always come up with a more poetic “brand” name for the down tube or seat tube, and keep the P/R as well as a model designation (for example the Mercedes Benz 300D and 240D were also built on the “W123″ model).
In terms of where to go – the little touches on your white P/R take the cake. Sean at Rawland made such small changes to his bikes, and they’ve come out kind of refined. I think Matthew’s collaboration with Jan Heine for the original kustard P/R was about perfect. I know some people talked about it being too heavy with OS tubing, but it is supposed to be a a solid workhorse for porteur duty, rando work, and touring/camping. The upslope top tube on that bike was far less radical than on the G2s, and I think still kept the classic look with the advantages of a slight upward slope (Riv does something similar).
Color-matched fenders are the key. I get more complements on my G1 than my more fancy bikes, I think, because people like the matching mudguards. That original kustard color was great – but there are so many great colors on the current powder coat spectrum that could be offered – light blue, a darker tan, etc. I really liked the grey that came on the original prototypes.
By the way, I should add, your logo on the top of the website would make an *excellent* seat tube decal or metal headbadge. White, brown, & green make for a nice color palette.
Would you have the holy grail of Kogswell – the “rack project” in the works too?
If you need someone to run a prototype through its rigors, let me know!
How complicated is spec’ing different tubing for different sizes? Seems like the non-OS-tubing makes sense for the 53, 56, and maybe 59 models. I’d assume people tall enough to ride the 61 and 64(650B?) weigh enough to make non-OS tubing overly responsive.
+1 on the 1″ threadless. Maybe VO would be interested in adding 1″ threadless stems? There’s a hole in the market there. Shims work, but slimmer 1″ specific stems are much more elegant.
Regardless of model name, I hope your beautiful shop logo gets used on the headtube. Headbadge?
I think it’s still a great idea to offer a mating *steel* front porteur rack for the fork, utlizing the fork crown mounts. I know there was a lot of disappointment voiced on the KOG list when Matthew suggested an Aluminum rack. Not sure the details of production problems he ran into with steel. Was it spec’ing a rack to fit all the different trail forks? Will you still offer a trio of fork trails?
I think the seatpost that comes with the P/R is a POS. Why two bolts?
As with many others, I am a tall guy who had high hopes for the 64cm P/R only to have them dashed when the long-awaited production run came in out of spec. I would agree with Jake that speccing different tubes for the big sizes makes sense. Assuming you will make big sizes? If you will not be making big frames I will go away and not shadow your virtual door again.
[...] of Longleaf Bicycles in North Carolina. Anthony discusses the move and solicits feedback on the Longleaf website: Matthew at Kogswell and I have agreed that I will take over the Kogswell 650B P/R production and [...]
Also, I’ll cast my vote for vertical dropouts, and PLEASE adopt James Black’s dual-position fork ends!
Tubing — On a bike that is supposedly _designed_ for stability and front-load capability, no-shimmy is paramount IMHO. I’d certainly give up a bit of “planing” for a safer ride! I’d move to 9/6/9 standard-diameter tubing throughout, dropping the 8/5/8 top tube of the P/R. Check out the Boulder Cycles All-Road 650B to see how they’ve tweaked the tubing to reduce shimmy.
Sloping top tubes — I think they’re OK; I liked the shallower slope of the G1 models better. Just make large-enough sizes for us taller folks (60-62cm+), and keep the TT length proportional.
Threaded vs. threadless steerer tubes – 1-inch threadless is somewhat uncommon; 1-1/8 inch is MUCH easier to come across. I’d do either 1-inch threaded, or 1-1/8 inch threadless — but I prefer the latter since it has become the current “standard”.
Fenders — Color-matched fenders are OK only if it doesn’t drive the cost up too much. Fenders dent and scratch easily, and it’s easier to just re-polish alloy ones vs. touching up scratched paint.
Name — I’ve always liked “MacGyver” as a possible name for a do-it-all bicycle. ;) (I came up with “Polyvalent” — French for “multi-purpose” — for the V-O frame, BTW.) Maybe leverage your shop’s name and go for tree-themed model names (though avoid the already-used “Redwood” and “Sequoia”)? Or, reading from the mission statement on your “About Us” web page, howzabout “Trans/Sport”?
Frame Mods for lighting – AWESOME!
And please, no custard, black, or French blue color schemes. We’ve seen enough of those!
Vertical rear dropouts, and James Black’s dual-position fork ends!
Whatever you do, please reposition the seat-tube pump peg so it actually fits a pump! ;)
My only gripe here is that — of course — just as MG moves nearby to me in the SF Bay Area, the 650B frames move back across the country to the East Coast! ;)
Congrats, and if you need product testers, just let me know!!!
-Jim G
Furthermore: PLEASE spec 132.5mm rear spacing for either 130mm road hubs or 135mm MTN/touring hubs!!!
Congrats! It’s great that you are able to continue this wonderful bike.
- I like the way my 59cm G2 P/R ride. The shimmy is an afterthought as I have adopted myself to it–putting my knees on the top tube from time to time when I need both hands off. My Ebisu 650b also plane, but has an OS downtube (5/4″) but an 1″ top tube. It planes, and no shimmy. but I am also 195 lbs. I say, if the number makes sense, spec differently for different sizes, but keep 59cm on the light side. I sold my rivendell–a wonderful bike–because it has stouter tubing and doesn’t ride the same. We have plenty of stout tubing steel bikes out there.
- Porteur racks will be great; maybe a version that has similar design as the Pass & Stow rack to accommodate front panniers
- the front and rear have different tire/fender clearance. Using 41mm Riv F/R tires, I have more than 10mm of gap between the tire and the fender, the rear barely fits the same tire using 52mm VO Zeplin
- I like silver fenders and 132.5mm drop out
- OK with both 1″ or 9/8″ steerer; I am moving toward the VO stem adapter plus VO threadless stem for my 1″ bikes, too.
- I am from Taiwan, and native Taiwanese Mandarin speaker, and I can read and write Chinese. I know these frames are made in Taiwan, if somehow I can be of assistance in any way in this regard, let me know. I visit family there once a year (and go there for business very occasionally).
I should have posted it on KOG when Matthew indicated a P/R handoff that my guess was it would be you.
Great news. I came very close to buying a second P/R when Matthew offered the sale pricing…and I’m still considering another one. How many people buy two of the exact same frame? It has occurred multiple times with this one, and I’m going to seriously consider a “Longleaf version” when available.
No suggestions now, but I’ll think about it and get back later.
Congratulations, Anthony — great to see that the P/R has landed with a responsible owner! Agree with the G1 upslope/geometry and the 132.5 rear OLD. 9/6/9 standard tubing throughout sounds fine (although 8/5/8 throughout might be fine, too, and more fun — I suspect balance may be more important than dimensions when it comes to shimmy). Agree that 1″ threadless is the worst of the three options.
No dog in the painted-or-not fenders fight, but please spec them for Hetres! Those are the 650B tires that people want to run, and they don’t want them to fit under their fenders “just barely.” Chris insists on spec’ing the Polyvalent for CdVs, which is a mistake and really opens the door for the P/R to differentiate itself in a good way — please take advantage! (If you go with horizontal drop-outs, though, you totally should copy his clever fender spring mount.)
My wish list:
Vertical rear dropouts.
Adjustable fork offset.
No cantilever studs, or removable ones.
S&S couplers option
Level top tube.
Lightest tubing you can find! Within reason, of course, but if it’s any stiffer than the current P/R, I’ll pass.
Unpainted option, so we can just take them to our favorite local powdercoater.
1″ threadless is a good compromise. 9/8 stems with a shim, and quill lovers can still have them threaded.
I’d rather buy shiny fenders separately than have included painted ones.
I like the 132.5 rear spacing, though I have no problem using 130 hubs in my P/R now.
Man, I sure am picky!
Congatulations, Anthony. This is great news. A practical and versatile frame like the P/R dovetails nicely with the velosophy you’ve expoused on the KOG and your website. Longleaf is a great name for a bike. I’ll have to ponder any tweaks and improvements and submit them later.
Billiam in San Diego
Thanks for the input, everyone. Keep ‘em coming. I’ll will address the suggestions as soon as I can.
* I’ll second the Longleaf logo suggestion above – it would make an excellent headbadge or, perhaps even better, seat tube decal. And the dark brown or green would both be lovely frame colors.
* Given that my G1 P/R with 9/6/9 OS tubing occasionally shimmies, I don’t know if you’re going to eliminate it without a lot of extensive (and expensive) prototyping and testing. I wouldn’t even worry about it. I don’t — it’s only an issue when riding no-handed! And most people, as far as I can observe, don’t do that. Franklyn’s suggestions are interesting though. Didn’t the G2/G3 P/R get a slimmer downtube? Using a stouter downtube and slimmer top tube is interesting.
* 1 1/8″ threadless stems don’t look very good sitting on top of 1″ spacers, and 1″ threadless stems pretty much don’t exist anymore. Certainly not in the sizes/angles you want for good city bikes. Stick with 1 1/8″ threadless – you get the best stem options that way. 1″ quill stem selection is not great these days.
* PAINTED FENDERS!!
This is definitely the thing that garners the most compliments on my G1 P/R – the matching fenders. The simple fact of making them match the frame makes the bike appear far more integrated than a bike with contrasting fenders, regardless of whether it actually is or not.
* Lighting enhancements — awesome!
My two cents – bring the frames back closer to the G1. For simplicity’s sake, there’s really no need for multiple forks — the 40mm works great for everything.
* I’m saddened that this means a production porteur rack will probably never get made. Here in San Francisco, I still get asked about my custom rack one or two times every week, and everyone universally expresses disappointment that it’s custom, and there’s nothing like it available for less than $200.
Also, I’m totally stealing your M12 bolt modification for my Box Dog Bike Pelican. Nice touch, there.
I would just second what Ryan says. Lightest tubing possible please. Also, if not adjustable fork offset, how about making the bend in the forks more Frenchy, low and graceful? Finally, the transition between MG and you could not be better.
Rick in Mississippi.
The Longleaf logo at the top of the website was developed from the beginning to double as a headbadge. It is no coincidence that it looks the part.
Jim G has been kind enough to set up the Longleaf Bicycle Grove, a google group for discussion of the 650B framesets, future projects, and all things bicycle. The group will allow us to organize conversations better since design questions can be pursued in discreet threads and will be better than the blog in that all members can start threads rather than being limited to blog posts generated by me. Thank you, Jim.
Here’s the group homepage — http://groups.google.com/group/longleaf-bicycle-grove?hl=en
Anthony, I don’t have a P/R, but I’ve definitely considered one. A few thoughts from the bleachers which are probably worth about what you’re paying for them:
1. Keep the sloping top tube. There are plenty of options for “traditional” level top tube 650Bs out there. I suspect your “traditional” buyer is going to be put off by the welds (instead of lugs) anyway, so why lose the function and differentiation?
2. 9/8″ threadless, definitely. 1″ threadless is an evolutionary dead end. With Velo Orange making good-looking stems in the industry-standard 9/8, you can get the best of both worlds. And has anyone out there ever tried to thread a completely threadless steerer? I have, and it wasn’t pleasant.
3. I have no dog in the fight re: tubing diameter/gauge, but one poster’s suggestion to stiffen up the bigger frames makes logical sense and agrees with my seat-of-the-pants experience.
4. Definitely, definitely make it clear Gran Bois Hetres with fenders. The Hetre seems to be the gold standard of 650B right now, so designing a frame that won’t take it is a shot in the foot.
5. Fenders… could there be color options? Silver, black, or painted-to-match? Or is that too many SKUs?
6. Finally, as others have said, your Longleaf logo is a headbadge waiting to happen. If Matthew will give up the P/R name, then a Longleaf (brand) P/R (model) differentiates it from the Kogswell offering while maintaining continuity with its “family tree”, so to speak.
Anyway, that’s my coffee-fueled ramble. Congrats!
Jason Nunemaker
Des Moines, IA
Use sliding vertical dropouts! — it’s the best possible solution for everyone except for flip-flopping-fixters using one chainring. On-One started doing it on cheap production frames years ago, and Soma started recently.
Keep the 9/8 threadless as standard, though you could still offer a 1″ threaded fork with reducers.
Try to do the painted fenders, but make sure you don’t use the godawful stays that MG was using. The VO/Honjo ones are acceptable, but the Berthoud style is perfect.
Lighting enhancements are awesome, but try to make it as internal as you can — could you enlarge/reinforce the vent hole at the fork dropout to pass the wire up to the crown? Could you investigate offering a carbon brush in the headtube like Rene Herse?
Try to get porteur racks going, but ditch the taiwanese shop MG was working with — the last prototypes he got weren’t good. Maybe try partnering with Rack Lady on a standard design? (or as an OEM like VO did?)
Switch to removable cantilever posts, especially if you can pull off the Peugot trick of having the exact same framespec work for canti+650b and caliper+700c
As far as the porteur racks go, consider it done.
They’re in stock, well under $200, stainless steel, fit P/R forks well, and have a removable rail.
http://www.longleafbicycles.com/products/racks-baskets-bags-and-fenders/racks/vo-stainless-steel-porteur-rack/
I don’t know that they can be improved upon much, or made less expensively without losing a good deal of value. I’m going to stick to getting the frames made just right for now.
I strongly prefer 1″ threaded steerers, but I would consider a frame with a 1 1/8″ threadless. If you go with threaded, it would be great if you also went to a horizontal top tube so that the top tube and stems can be parallel. I know there’s no functional reason for that, but it looks great. At least, it looks great if your frame is large enough that you don’t need to use a really tall stem.
Also, since VO has put out its 650b frame with a long top tube, maybe it would make sense to keep your frame on the short side.
I like lighter tubing, but I’ve never experienced shimmy, so maybe I’m being cavalier about it.
Matching fenders would be a selling point for me.
* Name?
Longleaf. Make this your only model, ever, and just keep on refining it. Longleaf sounds good and identifies the bike with your business.
The design that attaches to the pair of M6 on the fork crown and to mid-fork tabs (or lowrider brazeons) is a substantial improvement — it’s stiff and strong without causing the fork to be stiff too — you get natural suspension without instability.
It also leaves room for a lowrider rack, whether a normal one or a custom pair of attachments that take advantage of the extra M6 at the dropout and the rack providing the bridge over the wheel. It’s a shame MG’s production situation was so fucked up.
You could at least get a future run of VO racks that facilitate using the pair of M6 brazeons on the crown.
My two cents is go with a level top tube. I’ve looked and longed and almost got to yes with the P/R except for that darn top tube–for me it holds the frame and concept back from being just the coolest dang bike.
Fit for Hetres sounds good.
I’m glad the P/R is in good hands!
As Anthony points out, we (Velo Orange) make a production Porteur rack. It will fit on just about any upright bike with 26/650b/ 700c/27″ wheels.
It’s polished stainless, light weight, and is designed to support many times it’s weight. And it’s well under $200, with rail, strut and mounting hardware.
So the elusive rack is dead? but I have these convenient braze-ons waiting! (the VO rack is not made for my bike)
Keep the colour matched fenders the look is superior to non-match IMHO
matching racks would be wicked awesome too
Oh and a huge congrats to Anthony so pleased; a one stop shop now.
1 1/8 steerers: I’d rather not have to deal with headset wrenches and non-standard/old-stock stems.
Lightweight tubing: there are plenty of overbuilt bikes available.
How about a big Green Bag for the front that says, “La Parisienne – Libere”?
But seriously, Lots of Constructeurs built a lot of Porteurs over a lot of years. They all did the same thing – Moved front loads fast with reliability. I’m all in favor of reviving the mission; but there’s been a lot of technology under the bridge since Parisian newspapers distribution was moved from the bike to the truck. Some – not a lot, since most of it was race-inspired – could be used. But threadless headsets are minor advances in our arena. Really. 9/10 speed chains stretch.
But some changes really should be considered very closely:
LED advances are huge.
Front wheel dynamos are huge.
Battery storage capacities and re-charging is huge.
Kevlar reinforce tires are big. (in the 70′s I’d flat twice a week average.)
These are advances that make bike commuting viable, when it WASN’T so viable when these porteurs were last around. They also make Brevets that go into the night more viable.
There are other social changes afoot:
People are riding to Farmers Markets where they run into other people. Their bikes, racks and bags are indications that they are on-board with the core values.
People riding on streets in clothes that INVITE the older or less athletic to *participate* in a social statement, instead of athletic competition.
Can anybody name other advances/changes that make this KIND of bike MORE viable for its mission than it was 45 years ago? The reason I ask, is that I’d like to see the Porteur/Randonneur bike come back, not as a retro curiosity, but as a real solution to today’s living that has a heritage.
Phil Miller
Altadena, CA
Would you consider doing a run with standard tubing and trackends–no shift mounts or cable guides. Basically, a fixed gear PR frameset.
Tubing: you can make it light and lively without shimmy. Plenty of other builders have pulled this off. I have a 700c P/R that I barely ride because of shimmy. I think the whole concept of Porteur/Randonneur is flawed thinking much in the way it’s wrong to build a cyclocross/touring bike. A bike that excels at one will be poor at the other. Randonneur bikes, like cyclocross bikes should be light and lively since you’re riding against the clock and carrying only a minimal load. A Porteur/Touring bike should be stout and able to take abuse. Trying to do both only results in a “jack of all trades, master of none” situation. Ideally, offer two frames: a stouter Porteur/Touring model and a lighter Randonneur model.
Slope or no slope: It’s a tough call. Sloping top tubes are not very attractive but then I think the only thing worse is an ungainly looking extended head tubes. The extended head tube is what stopped me from buying a Rawland. It just looks like the frame wasn’t properly designed. I say slope the top tube but only as little as needed.
Threaded/threadless: 1″ threadless sounds good. You can always thread a threadless steer tube but you can’t do the reverse. Plus there’s only 1 nice quality threadless stem available these days (Nitto) versus a multitude of nice threadless stems.
Fenders: I could go either way. Might as well offer painted and just make them an option.
Name: Longleaf sounds great.
Other: Vertical drops. The idea of using horizontal to appeal to the SS crowd is a dumb idea. The majority of riders are going to run gears. Why inconvenience the majority to accommodate the minority? If you really want to please both then make both truly happy by using sliding vertical drops.
Pump peg: We only need one, not the two found on the P/R. Ideally, mount it on the non-drive side seat stay. This is nice for apartment dwellers who have to go up stairs and also allows for a full size pump.
Racks: It’s hard to imagine a need that isn’t already being met by Nitto, VO, or Pass & Stow?
Only downside to VO’s rack is that the center mounted tang allows a lot of lateral movement with heavy loads that increases shimmy. Use of the P/R’s fork crown mounts should do a lot to eliminate that. Even if there is not a welded on solution for this, there should be some kind of clamping hardware that would stabilize sufficiently.
Backwardly compatible forks!!!
The reason I went with a Kogswell over V/O is because of the threadless headset. I decided (after breaking my face because of equipment failure) that I’d much rather fall on a threadless stem than a quill stem. I know the retro look and immediate adjustability of the threaded headset/stem is popular, but threadless 1 1/8″ is standard. Do you want to make a boutique bike or a bike for everybody else?
And all the connection points (and those gorgeous lugs) on the flat crowned fork, as well as the three different rakes, are key for making the most versatile and appealing bicycle possible.
Tubing–Lighter!
Sloping top tubes–Prefer not
Threaded vs. threadless steerer tubes–Threaded if level top tube
Fenders–Painted [and please make it in black]
Name? Some ideas: the Longleaf…
Switch [get it?]
Jacques or Pierre?
Po-Rando
Whip
650Beast
Rambler
Hunter or Huntsman
S.U.V.
Chocolate Fantasia [just kidding]
Gemini [as in the twins, duality...]
Doppelganger
Journeyman
Claymore
Legend
Billygoat
I could do this all day, which is why I’ll stop now.
I was very close to ordering a 64cm 700C p/r in spite of some misgivings when the Kogswell website disappeared.
My preferences: vertical dropouts, a bigger frame (66? 68? I’m 6’4), non-sloping top tube, 700 wheels, v-brakes, room for fenders with 700/42′s.
What I liked about the p/r: choice of fork offset & wheels, informative website, write-ups in Bicycle Quarterly, kit included fenders, price.
Since I couldn’t contact Kogswell, I never did order a bike/frame kit and am still in the market.
Common Names for Longleaf Pine: American pitch pine, Amerikaanse, pitchpine, Bogalusa pine, broom pine, brown pine, Calcasieu pine, fat pine, figured-tree, Florida longleaf pine, Florida pine, Florida yellow pine, Georgia heart pine, Georgia longleaf pine, Georgia pine, Georgia pitch pine, Georgia yellow pine, Gulf Coast pitch pine, hard pine, heart pine, hill pine, high pine, langbarrig tall, longleaf, longleaf pine, long-leaf pitch pine, longleaf yellow pine, longleaved pitch pine, longstraw pine, madera pino, moeras-pijn, North Carolina pitch pine, palustris pine, pin de Boston, pin des marais, pino del sur, pino giallo, pino grasso, pino palustre, pino pantano, pino, pece, pino tea, pino tea roja, pitch pine, pitchpin, pitchpin americain, red pine, Rosemary pine, Sabine pine, soderns gul-all, southern hard pine, southern heart pine, southern pine, southern pitch pine, southern yellow pine, sump-all, sumpf kiefer, sydstaternas gul-tall, tea pine, Texas longleaf pine, Texas yellow pine, turpentine pine, yellow pine.
Take your pick, if you want to stay in the Long Leaf Pine genus.
See http://www.auburn.edu/academic/forestry_wildlife/longleafalliance/ecosystem/longleafname.htm
1. Vertical dropouts. Let’s be able to mount inflated Col de Vie / Hetres.
2. Sloping top tube: great. If this is still going to be an all-roads/all-riders bike, the slope makes all the difference.
3. Weld the puppy. Fine Keep the cost down.
4. Offer a stout bike, and a light bike.
5. Vertical Droputs.
6. No cutesy names. Longleaf is fine.
7.. Vertical dropouts.
Tubing: I’m open to both options, I guess I would lean towards stouter.
Sloping Top Tube: Aesthetically I’m opposed to the sloping top tube, but I might be coming around for practical reasons. I would love a horizontal top tube, but would accept a sloping one.
Threaded vs. Threadless: I’d prefer threaded, but threadless wouldn’t be a dealbreaker.
Fenders: I love the matching painted fenders.
Name: I like the idea of Longleaf P/R, which carries the lineage and shows the change as well.
And now my question: any estimate or goal for what the price will be? Will it be sold like the original P/Rs were sold? Thanks for taking over!
How about instead of choosing between vertical or horizontal drops, like some seem to really want, why not build the frame with an eccentric BB, just like the Singular Peregrine? Heck, the price of the frame includes a Phil Wood eccentric BB housing!
I don’t think the point is to offer an option to fixed/single-speed riders, but rather to those of us who prefer IGHs, whatever that might be. Just a thought.
sloping top tube/steerer size:
I would argue that coordinating these decisions is the way to go. A tall stem/steerer height looks much better with a quill stem, so go to a (nearly?) horizontal TT if you go 1″ threaded. Conversely, a steeply sloping TT doesn’t look good with a quill stem that has a horizontal extension. If you decide on 1 1/8 threadless (which I vote against), go with a sloping TT (6 degree?). If you go with 1″ threadless, compromise and go with a 2 degree slope.
132.5mm drop out spacing
lighter tubes for smaller frames
matching steel porteur rack, nickel-plated like Nittos! And keep the fork crown with the rack mounts.
offering a P and an R version with different tubesets would be great, but is probably not economical; if there is only one version, I’d name it the Longleaf P/R to honor the lineage
no matching fenders
wiring braze-ons are fantastic, and are a major draw for me
Hey, where is part 2? Given that you were expecting a first production run by the end of summer (2010), we would greatly appreciate an update on the expected timing. Have you gotten any prototypes in yet?
Cheers!
Part 2 is in the archives. I have no ETA right now. Everything is taking longer than expected and I don’t want to throw out any more dates until I have something firm.